A Fortress of Light and Space: Happy Birthday, Es Baluard

One of Palma’s greatest treasures is its museum for contemporary art. You don’t care for museums? Be sure, this one will inspire you. Because Es Baluard is not just a nice building for exhibitions – it’s a marvelous Renaissance fortress adopted by the 21st century. And while there are extraordinary shows inside, its outside is just as spectacular. For me, it’s a magic place.

The museum is built straight into the remnants of the historic rampart (baluard in catalan) at the southwest corner of Palma’s 16th century city wall. A unique mix of old limestone and modern concrete, glass and steel, with abundant grounds that are open to the public. I come here every once in a while, just to sit on the thick wall and enjoy the spectacular panorama from the cathedral to Cap Blanc, across the blue sea and the marina to the Tramuntana. Or I walk up one of the ramps, leading further to a hidden aisle or a balcony, overlooking the city’s rooftops and offering other unexpected views. And there is a restaurant located in a glass cube facing the harbor. The bar on the patio is another great place to spend the afternoon and watch the sun set.

But it’s just as exciting inside Es Baluard, so get a ticket and explore modern art at it’s best. Right now, Mallorcan painter Rafa Forteza takes you on a fascinating trip to a multitude of objects, sculptures, prints, and paintings, many of them witty, play- and colorful. Some of them make you laugh, some leave you puzzled. Give you food for thought. That’s when I like an exhibition best. By the way: Es Baluard favors cyclists – if you come by bike, the entry is only 2€. Tomorrow, January 30, the museum celebrates its 12th birthday with a great fiesta. Feliz cumpleanõs!