Ask anyone about Bilbao and watch what happens. One person lights up about the Guggenheim. Another raves about the pintxos, those jewel-like bites of bread and topping that line every bar counter in the old city. Someone else mentions the cooler Basque temperatures, a welcome contrast to the scorching Spanish summer. And yet another will tell you about the bridges, those extraordinary steel and stone arcs that stitch together the banks of the Nervión River like sentences in a story still being…