This is not the kind of place you simply pass on your way to somewhere else. In fact, the road gets narrower with every kilometer. Past Alcúdia, past the last roundabout, the asphalt eventually gives way to a dirt track winding through pine forest toward the wilder edge of the Victoria peninsula. Then a small sign appears. And another. A gate opens. Suddenly, the forest gives way to something that feels almost surreal. An avenue of palm trees, a giant hippo beneath the pines, a rhino frozen…