On the Lookout: Penya des Migdia

For me, the Penya des Migdia on the Victoria peninsula is one of the most exciting shorter hikes on Mallorca. Shaded by trees and the mountain itself you gain altitude in no time. Nevertheless I stop every other minute to enjoy the breathtaking views. Mesmerized by the numerous shades of Mediterranean blue below the steep cliffs at my feet. Gazing up the eroded rock wall that is towering above the trail. Or searching the horizon for Cap Formentor or Menorca in the distance.

What starts as a walk across nicely scented pine forest eventually becomes a challenging path. Overgrown by diss grass, mastic and fan palms. Watch your step while it starts to run along the edge of the hill, with nothing to the left but the steep slope and the ocean. Leading you right away to that spectacular low and narrow passage: the old watchtower sticking to the rocks like a bird’s nest. A masterpiece of Mallorcan architecture it was actually built more than 400 years ago. But you might not want to think about the age of this bold structure while climbing through it.

In the morning you are entering from the shady side, only to exit into bright sunlight and another stunning vista of Cap des Pinar. The path here is hardly a foot wide but there’s a metal chain you can cling to leading to safe terrain. Only a couple of minutes more and you arrive at the mirador, rewarding you with a unique panorama of northern Mallorca. The ruins of a cistern, an oven and a shelter tell forgotten stories of a century old military base that the mountain used to be.

And there is more to come. If you love climbing, the last 30 minutes will be the best. Stonemen guide you across rough rocks to the summit of the Penya des Migdia with its abandoned cannon. It’s hard to imagine how something that heavy could have been brought all the way up here. The cobbled platform on the mountaintop is not only the geographic but also the emotional highlight, with endless views of the island, sea and sky. On a sunny day in autumn I could sit there for hours. Enjoy the gentle breeze and maybe look out for pirates on the Mediterranean.