Hace calor! It’s actually too hot for hiking in the Mallorcan summer months. On the other hand, the air is much cooler in the mountains than in the city or on the beach. Even more so if you hike through shady forests. Following the historic routes of the charcoal burners. A particularly beautiful one is the Camí des Grau. It goes all the way up to Penyal d’Honor and back past an ample picnic area and a unique cave house.
From Bunyola steep staircases are leading towards the ancient forest of evergreen oaks. The rocky path steadily winds up, passing the charcoal burners’ long abandoned cottages, fireplaces and cisterns. You could vividly picture, almost smell the history of this landscape.
But while moving along light-footed you can imagine how hard life and work in the forests must have been. Watch out for the two cairns marking the final bit to the top. Leaving the trees behind you climb on a small plateau with a breathtaking view of the island to your feet.
The route back down is less stony and mostly covered with leaves. Hollow ways and wider paths with huge mossy stones take turns. The light cuts through the high green roof. Soon you reach Can Garriguer with its shaded picnic places.
Eventually you squint against the burning sun when the oaks give way to a small plantation of olive trees. They are hundreds of years old and elaborately twisted. But they are less archaic than Sa Cova, a cave house built into the rocks.
The house is part of a small farm with a horse, peacocks and turkeys. If you are lucky, a peacock may even fan its spectacular tail feathers for you. What an amazing way of getting attention. But it certainly works. And it means you’re about to finish the circular hike to Penyal d’Honor.
Read more about circular hikes on Mallorca, right here.