One of the most exciting hikes on Mallorca is the circular route across the Victoria peninsula. Its highest peak, the Talaia, offers a spectacular view of both the bay of Pollença and the bay of Alcúdia. On a clear day you can even spot Menorca in the distance. Of course you could just hike up the mountain and enjoy the views, a fun part with only little climbing. But it’s absolutely worth to take your time and do the whole round.
Once you have left the summit a rocky path is leading across a deserted landscape beyond the tree line. Except for some tame goats nothing reminds you of civilization anymore. Down and up steep ravines with more breathtaking panoramic vistas. I can easily identify the Massanella with its characteristic double peak in the Tramuntana mountains and the impressive Museo Sa Bassa Blanca on the other side down by the sea.
No wonder that Joan Bennàssar described this area so vividly when I asked him about his favorite place on the island. Further on the narrow trail becomes overgrown with dissgrass and palmitos. Eventually it is turning back, criss-crossing a dried-up river bed and what used to be the levels of a waterfall. All along the way the Talaia comes into sight every now and then. While the old talaias (watchtowers) were built to monitor the sea and warn of pirates, today the mountain with its historic ruins offers orientation to the hikers.
Just when you think you’ve finally made it back to the Ermita de la Victoria there is this one last barranco. The climb reminded me slightly of North Vancouver’s Grouse Grind, steep as hell with steps of thick roots. Back at the cafeteria of the Ermita the coffee and gató taste just great and are a well deserved treat. It is pure pleasure to sit on the wide terrace facing the bay of Pollença with the November sun still warm on your face. And if you take a closer look, you’ll discover the small headland where the Night Manager was closing in on Richard Roper.