While vacationers splash in the turquoise shallows at Can Picafort, a few kilometers down the coast something entirely different waits. A narrow headland pushes out into the sea, and on it, small piles of stones and shallow depressions in the earth arrange themselves into a pattern so old it barely seems real. This is the Necròpolis de Son Real, popularly known as the Cemetery of the Phoenicians. You may have heard of it. But nothing quite prepares you for the moment you actually stand there…