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Outdoors

Lighthouse Rock: Es Far del Cap Gros

May 24, 2020May 24, 2020
  • Es Far del Cap Gros
  • Es Far de Cap Gros
  • Es Far del Cap Gros
  • Es Far de Cap Gros
  • Es Far del Cap Gros
  • Es Far del Cap Gros
  • Loop hike from Port de Sóller to Es Far del Cap Gros
  • Es Far del Cap Gros

A short Tramuntana hike that I like a lot is the loop trail from Port de Sóller to the Refugi de Muleta and the lighthouse Es Far del Cap Gros. A mostly relaxed walk of little more than two hours that leads across ancient cultivated land, past centuries-old olive groves, donkeys and quietly grazing sheep. Only to surprise you with unique vistas of the circular harbor bay and its surrounding high peaks. And if you’re lucky, you’ll enjoy a private tour by one of the local cats.

Starting in the hinterland of Platja d’en Repic the walk zigzags up to the Muleta plateau. On a hot day you can get freshly squeezed orange juice along the way, a welcome refreshment during the ascent. A couple of times you cross a fence or a gate in a dry stonewall. Ancient knotty olive trees spark your imagination. I often discover wild dancers, ferocious animals, and entwined lovers. And wouldn’t be surprised if they became alive at midnight.  

But soon I’m enchanted by the spectacular coastline and the deep blue of the Mediterranean Sea. The rocky path leads across low vegetation now, and this is where you may happen to meet one of the feline guides. The Muleta is actually their home and they love to spend their days roaming this beautiful piece of land. And sometimes they escort friendly hikers all the way back to the refugi. In due distance, of course, as if they didn’t really care.

Set on the furthest end of the bay the Refugi de Muleta once used to be a military telegraph station. Today, the secluded hilltop hostel is a lovely stopover for Tramuntana hikers, for an overnight stay or just a short break on the seaview terrace. Es Far del Cap Gros, the iconic lighthouse, is right next door. It’s been guiding ships along the Tramuntana coast since 1859, with quite an eventful history. You should think that today’s navigation systems have rendered lighthouses pretty much obsolete. But they neither lost their romantic touch nor historical and cultural value.

Admittedly, I also favor the hike because I love it’s destination Port de Sóller. You can treat yourself to a burger or a salad at Don Pedro’s or an ice cream and a coffee at Fet a Sóller. For me the final stop somewhere along the beautiful boardwalk is always part of the trip. And if in doubt whether to go for a swim before or after – just do both. Estilo Palma

Tags: hiking, port de sóller, Tramuntana
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