If you really want to get to know a city you have to explore more than just the official sights. Meet the locals, visit the markets, sample the food – and browse through the stores. Not the ubiquitous franchise stores that make one city look like the other. But the individual stores that have been family-owned and -operated for generations. They not only preserve traditional crafts, but also tell stories that form an integral part of the city’s history. Unlike many other destinations, there…