This time of the year it can get pretty chilly on the island, particularly in the mountains. That’s why I often take a hike along the coast where the winter sun is bathing sea and nature in a beautiful silvery light. One of my tours in Mallorca’s southwest leads from sleepy Portals Vells to the lighthouse of Cala Figuera.  

The narrow path is meandering along a carstified plateau, over rugged cliffs and through waist-high macchia. Bushes and trees have taken on bizarre forms from the steady winds. But there’s also wild rosemary, blossoming heather and even beautiful white iris growing on the dry rocks. A couple of hidden bays attracting sunbathers in the summer are deserted now, except for a single boat maybe, or a swimmer in neoprene.

All along the way you can see the lighthouse in the distance. While the new tower points the way to the port of Palma its predecessor was part of a system of watchtowers around the island. Built within view of each other they helped to protect Mallorca from pirates. Although the old stone tower in Cala Figuera is more and more dilapidating it is one of the most precious places you can imagine. 

From here, you are overlooking the whole bay of Palma all the way to Cap Blanc. Find a spot on the tower’s lee side, feel the warm sun on your face, and enjoy the view. Watch the seagulls surfing the thermals, and just forget about time. It’s only an hours walk back to Portals Vells, and its popular chiringuito closed for the season anyway. Lucky who brought a picnic.