Cutting edge: Cornador Gran

Looking up at the Sóller mountain ridge it is hard to imagine how you can ever climb Es Cornadors. The highest mountain top is a steep rocky triangle that seems rather unaccessible. I had thought just the same about the North route up Puig de Bàlitx, which turned out to be one of the most exciting Tramuntana hikes. So one early morning I set off to the Cornador Gran. The Mallorcan landscape and the unique panoramic vistas definitely make this tour another one of my favorites.

Starting in sleepy Biniraix you take the historic pilgrim’s trail leading upwards in wide curves across picturesque terraced hills. I look forward to the views of the bay of Sóller on my descent. But instead of following Mallorca’s most popular hiking trail GR 221 I go for a detour. The cami vell, the old path to the Cúber, is narrow and leads up and down through olive groves. Just shortly before the path joins the pilgrim’s trail again I pass cascades, a rare phenomenon on Mallorca. Like the famous ones at Es Salt d’es Freu they only really get water in spring.

The abundance of nature is overwhelming all year round. And while the canyons below are becoming deeper and deeper huge rocks are closing in from the sides. Sometimes you only notice the proximity of the abyss when you look back. For the last part of the climb you leave the trail and soon the scenery changes. Brushwood and tall grass are lining the way to the pass. Further up there is only rock and a shelter that offers protection in case the weather changes unexpectedly.

Just a few more meters and I reach the mountaintop. The panorama of the surrounding highest Tramuntana mountains is stunning. In the distance the orange valley of Sóller and the Mediterranean blend in with the sky. Standing here makes you humble and pride at the same time. Even in the hiking season you are likely to have the puig all for yourself. I would hardly leave, if it weren’t for the scenic route back through the Barranc de Biniaraix. And a large piece of gató de almendras with a cup of coffee on the church square of the village.