Castell d'Alaró: The Magic Mountain

One of the most magical places on the island is the Castell d’Alaró. Situated on the ridge of the flat mountain top with steep rock walls to all sides. It was long considered impregnable. Today it is a great hiking destination for the whole family. And the terrace of the Refugi, just a few steps further up the hill, the perfect place for an extended picnic.

The ascent already is pure joy. Along steep serpentines, past dry stone walls and ancient olive groves with grazing flocks of sheep. The air is filled with the ringing of their bells, with the bleating of lambs and cheery birdsong. Finally, the path turns into a staircase made of cobblestones that leads all the way up to the Castell. Every now and then you will pause just to enjoy the views.

Numerous legends entwine around the old fortress. When it was built and by whom, fierce stories of sieges, defeats, and conquests. But even though there is not much left of the castle, the ruins captivate and inspire their visitors to this day. I particularly love the tale of the Alcadena’s witches who wander from summit to summit on the night of San Juan.

Another great reason to hike up to the Castell d’Alaró is the Ermita. The small bar at the guesthouse serves great coffee, tasty snacks and delicious cakes. Thanks to the two shy donkeys who have their own gated refugio below the terrace. They are the ones who carry everything uphill.

So find a place at one of the wooden tables or on the low terrace wall and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. The vista of the Tramuntana and the bay of Palma is simply breathtaking. Whether on a bright sunny day with a deep blue winter sky. Or watching threads of fog between the two signature mountains, the Puig d’Alaró and the Puig de s’Alcadena. When it’s easy to imagine the witches riding with the wind.